The Menu is an agreeably mean-spirited satire with some very easy targets: foodies, high cuisine, and rich people - it could be subtitled The Service Industry Strikes Back. It spreads the bile around, though, by making the avenging chef (Ralph Fiennes) and his cultish staff into absolute nutters; not to mention their restaurant charges more than fifteen hundred dollars for dinner. Fuck those assholes.
The dinner in question is an exclusive affair where a bunch of rich people are ferried over to an island restaurant for an evening of fine dining. Among the cast are a has-been actor (John Leguizamo) and his assistant (Aimee Carrero), a couple of food critics (Janet McTeer and Paul Adelstein), some random finance bros and rich people (one of them played by Reed Birney, who reminded me a lot of Dan O'Herlihy; I kept waiting for him to say "Chef, you're fired!"). Most importantly, there's also a rich young foodie douchebag played by Nicholas Hoult (I did say this movie picks some very easy targets); He's only important because of his plus one, a last-minute replacement after he broke up with his girlfriend. Margot (Anya Taylor-Joy) is the odd one out in the group in that she doesn't take any bullshit, notices all the stuff the others miss, and is generally the voice of reason. A great final girl, in other words.
The first few plates go relatively smoothly, though there's already some slight trolling there - such as a course of breads where only the accompaniments are served (bread is poor man's food, you see) or the chef theatrically sending the food critic an oversized plate of poorly prepared/cracked emulsion (don't ask me). Then there's a death, and the evening's entertainments begin in earnest.
The main fun in the movie is the suspense part - the premise is completely ridiculous, but putting aside a few jabs at the attendees and some fun stylistic choices, the film presents itself at all times as a serious thriller, with Margot trying to navigate both groups to try and avoid what's clearly going to be a massacre. Picking apart what's going on (and why) is also fun, though the revelations alternate between humorous and a bit underwhelming.
Director Mark Mylod has a good handle on tone, with most of the jokes underplayed to fit the playful, murderous tenor of the the script. Things are kept relatively classy, with a couple of bloody highlights. As for the script (by Seth Reiss and Will Tracy - both veterans from The Onion*), it's pretty sharp and not afraid to get ridiculous. Any agenda or ideology is quickly smudged as sympathies shift; It's the better film for it.
Fiennes plays a mean psychopath, both menacing and weirdly vulnerable; Anya Taylor Joy makes for an extremely relatable, likeable protagonist, and everyone else - especially Leguizamo, who gets a lot of sympathy playing a douchebag who knows full well how much of a douchebag he is - are great if a bit cartoony. Poor Nicholas Hoult gets saddled with the most exaggerated character, a sycophantic, shallow moron whose big moments sometimes ring a bit too shrill against the slightly more subdued characters others are playing. Then again, he gets one of the best visual gags in the movie. Swings and roundabouts.
| Take my word for it, this is a very funny movie. |
So... yeah. The Menu tempers its humor with a nicely evil edge, and its horror with a beyond silly premise, some fun asides, and pretty effective satire. And I'll stop now before I'm possessed to inject a culinary reference.
You're welcome.
*: Will Tracy also wrote Save the Green Planet with Joon-Hwan Jang, which is a crazy thing to have on one's resumé. Much respect.
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